Modeling of Coastal Erosion in Exposed and Groin-Protected Steep Beaches

Process-based models are suitable tools for reproducing storm-driven erosion. However, their performance has been mainly examined on mild-slope sandy beaches and use steep still represents a challenge. Here, open-source process-based model XBeach experiments were combined with topographical measurements collected two storms (16- 5-year return period) to obtain reliable model. The parameters “facua” (parameterized wave asymmetry skewness sediment transport component), “bermslope” (upslope term semireflective beaches), “wetslope” (critical avalanching submerged slope) utilized calibration validation. 16-year storm simulations an exposed beach revealed that whether bermslope increased must be reduced, vice versa, properly simulate Adding provided excellent results these when using facua wetslope values close the recommended values. In groin-protected site, was successfully calibrated validated tested parameters, although different These demonstrated appropriate of can satisfactorily morphological changes hydrodynamic conditions coastal settings (exposed groin protected).